Category Archives: Style

Spezzato with non chalance

“Spezzato”: the art of pairing separate jacket and trousers.

The word “spezzato” in Italian means literally “broken”. When brought up in a conversation clothing-related, it indicates a broken pattern between jacket and trousers.

In Italy, just like many other customs in clothing, knowing how to pair separate jacket and trousers is an art. Italians are passionate about everything, lifestyle above all. Versatile and extremely chic, the mixing and matching has become a part of contemporary culture.

The art of spezzato is the perfect secret for keeping a suit’s elegance, with an extra touch of personal creativity.

Matching different patterns and fabrics is not always easy so we suggest 4 simple tips that will help you build refined elegance, without making mistakes.

a. Contrasts make all the difference

Perfect contrast

Perfect contrast

Play with shades of the same color scheme (blue-light blue, black-grey, brown-beige) in order to keep a formal attire. But if the situation allows you, don’t be afraid to match dark tone blazer (burgundy, green, dark blue) to lighter trousers and be daring with patterns and colored pocket squares.

b. The fit

The importance of a perfect fit

The importance of a perfect fit

Whenever you decide to go beyond the line of formality it is important to do it stylishly. If you decide to treat yourself to a spezzato, combine well-fitted blazers and trousers, possibly tailored. A well-cut suit will allow you to play with colours and patterns, while maintaining the right dose of sophistication.

c. Sprezzatura always on!

Spezzato with non-chalance

Spezzato with non-chalance

Spezzato is not to be confused with sprezzatura. They are not synonymous, but the truth is that one is the secret of the other. Sprezzatura is the ability of wearing any style with absolute nonchalance and that’s definitely an essential attitude for those who decide to dress out of the ordinary conventions.

d. Bon ton, grazie

Express yourself, but please observe etiquettes. There are situations that require a precise dress code in order to adapt yourself to the context. In this case it is better to retain the flair to make room for conventional elegance. An important meeting? A job interview? A classic blue suit is the most appropriate choice. For a wedding? In this case the only admitted spezzato will be Mr. Tight.

Massimiliano Mattetti
Italian Custom Clothier
Massimo Roma

Suggestions of spezzato

Suggestions of spezzato

The Blue Blazer

There are many things in menswear that can be discussed and everyone is entitled to an opinion, but on one things
we should all agree: every gentleman’s wardrobe should have a Blue Blazer.

Navy-blazer-style-www.myLusciousLife.com-Navy-jacket-inspiration
History

The blue blazer is versatile and naturally elegant, and it represents the wardrobe’s foundation of the classy “bon vivant”.

The history of this garment takes us back to 1837. The captain of a British frigate named HMS Blazer. To avoid the
embarrassment of his crew’s shabby appearance pending a visit from Queen Victoria, the skipper outfitted each
seaman with short blue serge jackets accented with shiny brass buttons similar to those on Royal Navy uniforms. The
blazers were an unequivocal hit with the style-conscious queen, and a fashion icon was born.

Over the years the blazer has lost its formal connotation becoming a garment to be used in different and more
casual circumstances.

Blue blazer

Fabrics and style

Typically made with lightweight hopsack wool, the blue blazer can be easily combined with casual trousers like chinos or jeans.
A white shirt with a white handkerchief will complete the perfect casual look.
Combined with gray trousers, it will bring to life a more “easy chic” look that will fit in every business
situation.

tumblr_mh9n2zitej1rl5td4o1_1280

Tips

A tip is to never wear a blazer with black shoes, instead use a darker or lighter brown (classic or suede leather).

Also, if you’d like to give your blazer a twist, choose the buttons to be silver or dark brown (more formal). It
will add a touch of class to the overall look of your blazer.

 

Massimiliano Mattetti
Custom Clothier
Massimo Roma – Fine Italian Menswear

Jacket vents. Outlook and functionality.

When selecting a suit or just a simple jacket, an important detail to consider is how many jacket vents it should have.

What are the options? The options are generally three: Vent-less (no vents), center vented (1 vent), side vents (2 vents).

 

The-Vents

Jacket Vent options

 

The reason why the jackets started to carry vents in the back is because back in the days, they needed a jacket design that avoided the fabric bunch up when gentlemen where riding horses with their jackets buttoned up.

These days the principle of having vents stays the same. The vents are primarily a comfortable option to have, however we want to keep it stylish so…. let’s analyze these options and see which one is best for you.

Vent-less option:

It’s the oldest jacket design and look very good on tall gentlemen with thin waist, however it creates problems when, with the jacket button up, you want to reach the pants pockets. It is probably the most elegant option as even Cary Grant considered it the most photogenic choice for a jacket. However, the jacket bunches up evidently in the back with your hands in the pants pocket, just as shown in the picture below.

Ventless-Suit-Jacket-View-

Vent less jacket

 

Center Vent:

Very popular choice with  gentlemen in the States in the 50’s, is still a used mainly with classic blazers. It still doesn’t looks very good when a gentleman tries to reach the pants pockets as it creates a “curtain effect”.

singolo spacco

Center Vent

 

Side Vents:

Possibly the most popular and practical choice for most gentlemen. Combining style and functionality, it is our favorite choice.
Looks good on pretty much any body structure and doesn’t create that bunch of fabrics when sitting down or reaching the pants pockets.

double-vent

Cutaway collar – The dress shirt for everyone

When it comes to choosing a collar for your next dress shirt, the cutaway collar is definitely a great choice.

With a wide range of available collars the cutaway collar, aka as French Collar, is the one with the collar points widely spread from each other.

The picture below shows a few variations of collars. The first two from left are to be considered cutaway collars. Diversi_tipi_di_colletti

This type of collar certainly adds personality to your look and, despite it is designed to better show the tie, it is commonly used even without a tie.

Cutaway-collar-Massimo-Roma

If you decide to wear it with a tie, I’d suggest a thicker knot. This is because of the wide space left between the collar and the thicker knot will better fit between the two points.

David_Beckham_cutaway_collar

Another great characteristic about a cutaway collar dress shirt is the versatility.

Although it seems to be made for wearing a tie, this type of collar looks great even without a tie. In fact, because of the way it is cut, it will “stand up” without folding. Whether you wear it with a jacket or with just a sweater, the cutaway collar won’t let you down!

Cutaway_w_no_tie

If you’re in the market for a casual dress shirt, you should consider the cutaway collar as your first choice. You will be amazed how easy it can be worn with a tie. Dress up and dress down without too many questions!

cutaway_collar_w_casual_shirt_and_tie

Typically though, a cutaway collar dress shirt is advised for slimmer gentlemen, because it renders the overall visual of your look around the neck a little more robust.

At Massimo Roma, the options for your next dress shirts are unlimited. In fact, not only you can choose from over 300 cotton fabrics, but you can pretty much design your dress shirts, exactly the way you’ve always dreamed it.

 

Jacket pockets. Straight or slanted?

What is the difference between slant and straight pockets?  Which one should we choose?
Every man has a different body structure and very few have a “perfect” one, therefore when we choose a a garment in general, we should look carefully at the details of this garment. These details can flatter your body structure, hide your “weak” spots or, in opposite of that, they can make you look “off”.

Pockets are one of these details. There is really no trend in fashion with this particular detail so it is important that you choose what will work best for you.

The slant pockets were originally designed for tweed hacking jackets worn by horse-riding hunters and carried typically a ticket pocket to facilitate access when riding the horse. Today the slant pocket is a feature that has been incorporated by every day’s fashion.

So which one to choose?

The slant pocket is suggested for more “rotund” gentlemen because it subtly stirs the attention up and away from the stomach area. This doesn’t mean it will look bad on a slimmer gentleman, however in general lines, it will help men with belly.

The straight pocket. that defines a horizontal line, adds visual weight to the figure, interrupting the “height effect” just like it happens for the belt-waist line. Because of that it is suggested more for tall and slim figures.

You might have also seen at times a “third pocket” on suits or sport jackets. The ticket pocket was originally designed in the 19th century in England to facilitate access to train tickets for all traveling gentlemen. It was finally “absorbed” into the fashion trends in the 60’s. Today it is added only on more sporty jackets or not-so-formal suits.

slant pockets  Straight_pocket

The Navy Blue Blazer

The Navy Blue Blazer

The Navy Blue Blazer

 

How many times have you been staring at the wardrobe wondering how to look sharp without dressing up too much? I have…many times! It is not easy to find a garment that puts a classy accent to your style and allows you fit in many environment without looking “too much” or under-dressed. Well, if you haven’t figured it out by yourself, let me disclose this to you: it is the Navy Blue Blazer.

The Blue Blazer, inspired historically by the Navy uniform, is in fact a must in gentleman’s wardrobe. Designed to originally

That is why you should put the Navy Blue Blazer at the foundation of your wardrobe. It pairs up with anything (dressy pants, suit trousers and jeans) and takes your look immediately to another level.
Do you have one? How does it fit you? How old is it?

Come and get your new stunning Italian Navy Blue Blazer before the Holidays start and get advised on sizing, fit and style by Massimo Roma.

Call NOW and get a free pocket square with the purchase:
(561) 302-5998

 

How are your dress shirts doing?

Perfect dress shirt fit

Perfect dress shirt fit

 

Do your dress shirts fit you well? Are they in good shape? Do you have enough variations?

We tend to just get up in the morning and do things in routine, such choose automatically a dress shirt that is in the closet and go with it. But the question is: how do your dress shirts really fit you?
Remember that you are unique and that your size is just as unique as you are. If you buy standard sized shirts, even if you are lucky enough to have a perfect body shape, there will always be something that doesn’t fit you perfectly. That is why you should look at our Made to Measure services.

Are your dress shirts in good shape?
Take a moment and see in what condition they are. Often, by taking them to the cleaners, where the dress shirts are put under a huge amount of stress with the presses and starch, they tend to wear out fast, especially on the collar border or at cuffs.

Do you have enough variations?
In today’s world we’re judged by the way we look, hence the importance of looking good! Wearing the same three dress shirts over and over won’t speak in your favor. Make sure you have enough options in the closet. A basic wardrobe should carry the following dress shirts:
– 4 solid colors (two tonalities of blue and white)
– 3 striped
– 2 checked

If you thinks it’s time to refresh your wardrobe, don’t hesitate to call Massimo Roma! (561) 302-5998

Button fastening

Although it might sound obvious to many of you experienced gentlemen out there, but did you know that tradition dictates that you should always leave the bottom button on your suit jacket undone?

So, if you have a 3 button, only fasten 2 and with a 2 button you should only fasten 1.

For what concerns sleeve buttons, they are fake/not working on commercial suits, while with high-end and custom suits, you will see opened sleeve buttons (aka working cuffs). Some call it a “show-off” some call it a “personal style detail”. I will leave that up to you.