Tag Archives: Italian suits

Spezzato with non chalance

“Spezzato”: the art of pairing separate jacket and trousers.

The word “spezzato” in Italian means literally “broken”. When brought up in a conversation clothing-related, it indicates a broken pattern between jacket and trousers.

In Italy, just like many other customs in clothing, knowing how to pair separate jacket and trousers is an art. Italians are passionate about everything, lifestyle above all. Versatile and extremely chic, the mixing and matching has become a part of contemporary culture.

The art of spezzato is the perfect secret for keeping a suit’s elegance, with an extra touch of personal creativity.

Matching different patterns and fabrics is not always easy so we suggest 4 simple tips that will help you build refined elegance, without making mistakes.

a. Contrasts make all the difference

Perfect contrast

Perfect contrast

Play with shades of the same color scheme (blue-light blue, black-grey, brown-beige) in order to keep a formal attire. But if the situation allows you, don’t be afraid to match dark tone blazer (burgundy, green, dark blue) to lighter trousers and be daring with patterns and colored pocket squares.

b. The fit

The importance of a perfect fit

The importance of a perfect fit

Whenever you decide to go beyond the line of formality it is important to do it stylishly. If you decide to treat yourself to a spezzato, combine well-fitted blazers and trousers, possibly tailored. A well-cut suit will allow you to play with colours and patterns, while maintaining the right dose of sophistication.

c. Sprezzatura always on!

Spezzato with non-chalance

Spezzato with non-chalance

Spezzato is not to be confused with sprezzatura. They are not synonymous, but the truth is that one is the secret of the other. Sprezzatura is the ability of wearing any style with absolute nonchalance and that’s definitely an essential attitude for those who decide to dress out of the ordinary conventions.

d. Bon ton, grazie

Express yourself, but please observe etiquettes. There are situations that require a precise dress code in order to adapt yourself to the context. In this case it is better to retain the flair to make room for conventional elegance. An important meeting? A job interview? A classic blue suit is the most appropriate choice. For a wedding? In this case the only admitted spezzato will be Mr. Tight.

Massimiliano Mattetti
Italian Custom Clothier
Massimo Roma

Suggestions of spezzato

Suggestions of spezzato

World’s menswear capitals: Napoli and Biella

To provide its clients the highest quality in suiting, Massimo Roma reaches out to the world’s capitals in the industry: Napoli & Biella. These two Italian cities are not only synonymous of great history in both tailoring and wool making, but they also mean superior craftsmanship, passion and style.


Napoli and Biella, world’s capital in menswear



The history of sartorial tradition in Napoli (Naples in English) goes back to 1351 when Neapolitan elegance started to take shape with the birth of “Confraternita dei Sartori”. Napoli immediately became a fashion reference, nothing less than London and Paris.

In the 1800’s, the sartorial tradition in Napoli grew even bigger. The noble families all around the country were hiring Neapolitan tailors to get their clothes tailored and make sure they were up-to-date with their style. Often they traveled hundreds of miles in chariots, just to get measured and dressed by tailors in the beautiful city located at Vesuvio’s feet.
De Nicola, was probably the first name that became famous in the area, followed by Caggiula and Rubinacci.

Napoli tailor

In menswear, tailors from Napoli are considered among the best in world.


In the 900’s, more tailored transformed their little “bottega” into fashion houses and turned into world references in the industry: Kiton, Isaia, Marinella are just few well-known of the many fantastic tailors still present in the area.

Today, the “stile Napoletano” is considered the best in the industry because of the innate elegance, the passion and their sublime craftsmanship.


The city’s reputation in producing the best wool in the world goes back all the way to the 1800’s (although some of their manufacturers started all the way back in 1600’s, such as Vitale Barberis Canonico). Back then, the most important business people in the industry realized that the area had all the perfect characteristics needed to produce wool: environment for breeding the sheep and clean water filled with minerals ideal for rinsing of the wool.


Zegna, Loro Piana, Cerruti, Barbera: world’s best fabric makers are in Biella. These fabrics are ideal for the classic menswear industry.

It is not a coincidence that world fashion houses such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana, Cerruti 1881, Vitale Barberis Canonico 1663, Carlo Barbera, have their headquarters in this area.

Today, all high-end fashion brands refer to Biella when looking for top-quality and innovative fabrics, leaving no doubt on where the capital of the world in the industry is.



Massimiliano Mattetti
Custom Clothier
Massimo Roma – Fine Italian Menswear

Suit fabrics

Evaluating suit fabrics

Suit fabrics - Super 110's

Super 110’s

Evaluating suit fabrics is the most important step towards building your dream garment. I’m sure that you’ve come across fabrics grading labels that say: “Super 120’s or 130’s or 150’s or even Super 200’s”. But the question is: what does that “Super” number really tell you?


The number denotes the fineness of the individual fibers that make up the actual wool (only wool); similar to the thread count you see on bed linen. Typically, the higher numbers designate a thinner, silkier fabric, which is also rarer with a higher price tag.

The trade off for the luxurious feel is that these finer fibers also wear through quicker, so they’re not good as an everyday workhorse.

But be careful, especially with Chinese manufactured fabrics, the term is often abused to (unfairly) appeal more to the consumer. In fact, the market is overflown with suits & sport jackets that carry labels with high Super graded wool, that is in fact not even close to that number. As the matter of facts, it is often not even wool at all!

Super 150's?

Suit fabrics – Is it really Super 150’s?

Overall, when choosing fabrics for your next suit, pay attention to important details about it such as: weight, fineness, origin, etc.; you’ll be amazed by how much difference the right choice will make for you.

Contact an expert to learn more about which type of fabrics are best for your next suit or sport jacket.

Suit fabrics - Super 180's

Genuine Super 180’s – Our top of the line wool collection